- Permits: //but things change really quickly in Afghanistan, maybe it's already not up to date anymore!
I asked one permit for Badakhchan in Kabul (payed 1000, but actually the permit they writed was for all the country)
Then I asked the permit for Whakan in Faizabad (Afghan Tour only, the ministry of information and tourism stopped deliver the permits. Afghan Tour after the bridge here: 37.117948, 70.574092, in the middle of other shops, just ask!). Permit free.
Then now you'll need minimum 4 copies of : whakhan permit on one side (recto) / visa and passeport on the other side (verso).
Copy is "copy" in farsi
just ask "copy" in the street showing a document, lot of shops can do it. You can do it in Faizabad or Ishkashim.In Ishkashim:
Give 2 copies at the national security department here: 36.710466, 71.571752. It's a new building built in the middle of fields
just follow the track and soon you will see it! Just say "ma: Pamir" (no need to translate I guess) and give 2 copies. So simple....Then if you have the time, go to the tourism office here: 36.704993, 71.573771 and give them one copy. They won't do anything else than taking your paper, so honestly, if you don't want to wait, for example because you have one car leaving for Wakhan right now, just put your copy in the mailbox!! Keep the coordonates of the place in your phone, because in Iskhashim noone speaks english (except the guides), they don't even understand "tourist office". It's a nightmare
No copy is required anymore at the big Taliban checkpoint. They just don't care about you
The 4th copy will be for the last checkpoint in Bozai Gumbaz, little Pamir. There, they really need a copy, they don't take a picture like the other checkpoints. I didn't had a copy, so they kept my permit, and gave me it back when I came back. No negociation possible. So I didn't had the choice to come back through Bozai Gumbaz, which can be bad if you don't plan to come back here...
If you want to have the mind free, you can do some others copies for the other checkpoints or the National Park office. Maybe 4 more? But they all took pictures. Except Bozai Gumbaz.
- Weather:
Early october to mid october:
10 first days of october I was in little Pamir and it snowed. 10cm the first day. The air is normal or fresh with sun / cold when no sun. Lot, lot of wind, be aware of this. Hard with the tent, especially when you are in a sandy ground and no rock to keep your tent safe. Minimum temperature into the tent during all my trip (little and big Pamir) was between -2°C and -5°C (I don't know outside).
The first day I left by Daliz Pass. Be aware that it's a long way, and after the pass it becomes goat trail and people who are not used to small mountain paths may be afraid.
In case of snow or ice, it's too dangerous to go on this trail. Fortunally I had snow only after this day
Then because of the snow, I decided to stay on the road and not going by the mountain trails. Unfortunatelly I had the same problem when I started to come back from Bozai Gumbaz: just before Qarabel pass it snowed again a lot, so I decided to come back and continue only by the road, and not by the high mountain road.When I finished little Pamir and arrived in Boroghil, the weather started to be sunny again.
Then I had only sunny weather during 10 days in big Pamir. Same temperatures though, and same wind (starts generally around 4pm).
- Miscellanous:
Lot of trucks and cars in little Pamir. The roads (dusty tracks) are everywhere. Everybody will stop and ask you if you want to go with them, except the kirghiz people. The Kirghiz keep their bad reputation: no smile, no welcome, they didn't said to me to enter their house although I was under a snowstorm!!! And the only car I stopped myself before Chaqmaqtin was kirghiz and they asked for a terrible price only for few minutes! (that I declined of course).
All other people are very friendly and helpful.
Note that I met one tourist going with a guide by car in little Pamir just to meet the Kirghiz. I warned him about their behaviour. But because he was with a guide just for them, he said that everything will be allright. I met him again 2 days after. He said I was right. Even if he paid a special trip only to meet the kirghiz and culture and handy craft etc etc, he was very disappointed (bad feeling, no smile, etc).
So just keep in mind: Kirghiz people definitively don't like us. Don't go only to meet them. You'll be disappointed. You've been warned!
- In Big Pamir, I started by the fluvial road. Very sandy/dusty. Then I came back by the mountain trails. I don't remember every trail I walked but after Ouezet Pass towards Maydanil, you'll be again on small goat trails, not recommended in case of snow. And to finish, the trail going from Maydanil to Ouezet is definitively not recommended (impossible I would say) in case of snow/ice. People not used with mountain trails will be afraid even if there is no snow.
In big Pamir I didn't saw any car on the fluvial road. The first day, lot of caravans were going back from big Pamir. Then I didn't saw anybody during 7 days
- gaz: I bought some gaz stove in Peshawar before coming through Thorkham. I had my own stove in my bag (without bottle of course, forbidden in planes) but they didn't had the right bottle (the blue ones called camping gaz, as we have in Europe). So I bought one stove+gaz bottle (2200PKR). They didn't say anything in the border. Then in Ishkashim in the guesthouse they had a blue bottle as I wanted. So I exchange my new gas stove+bottle with their blue bottle. Lucky me!
(From Tadjikistan it would be more easy to bring a blue bottle).- The police asked me at the beginning of the fluvial route if I had a weapon/gun.... because it's so dangerous! Tigers, wolves, bears....
Unfortunatelly I didn't saw any of them 
only fingerprints of a big animal around my tent one morning, a feline, so I guess a snow leopard. And I saw some Marco Polos near Shigarka, but far. - Neither in little or big Pamir there was still yurts or tents. Nowhere. Except in the kirghiz villages but the yurts are in the middle of mud houses. So in October, don't expect to have a nice picture with a yurt which smokes in front of the Chaqmaqtin lake
I met only one shepherd camp still open between Maydanil and Ouezet. They came back with their yaks the day after I left, so around the 18 (?) october. They told me they will be definitively back with the sheeps 1 week after. - sticks are recommanded for crossing the rivers, even in low Wakhan valley. In big Pamir, some rivers were dry (so I sometimes missed water
), and in the morning almost all were frozen, so very hard to cross. There, everybody walk with rain boots, so it's easy for them to walk in the water Air is in general very dry so you'll need a lot of drinking. I had a filter.
- no sign nowhere, no cairn, just nothing. Be 100% independant.
Don't ask for walking time. Or don't trust them. They just don't know
or multiply minimum by 2, 3 or 4...- The shelters are in general dirty and very dark, sometimes no roof. Though I didn't entered all the shelters to check because I had my tent. But for sure it's not like in some Northern Pakistani treks where you have built houses with a clean pan waiting for you and your chapatis
Again, be simply 100% independant. Same of course for your electricity. Don't count on Kirghiz solar panels, or for sure prepare to pay a lot (they don't speak one word of farsi or english but they always have a pen to write a big amount of money with full of 000 on their hand ).- Ouezet guesthouse (at the top of the village) and the blue one in Boroghil are very friendly and speak english. In general in Wakhan, it's mostly easy to find someone who speak english.
- when I came back in Kunduz, the talibans came in my hotel and checked carefully all my bags, it was a complete search, including the count of each banknote and took pictures. They were searching for stones. They said it's common when somebody come back from Pamir, you'll be suspected.
To sum up: Pamir in october is empty, fresh, windy, but so beautiful
be careful in case of snow, some trails should be impossible to cross. It was my travel, my experience. Do your own. Stay safe!